dimanche 13 avril 2014

Love: Mango Spring Collection x Daria

The Mango new collection is all I love : fluid fabrics, white, lace, and the most beautiful model on earth : Daria.

samedi 12 avril 2014

Spring shoes

3 ideas. No Name, Converse, Jonak Platforms.
And you? What will be your spring shoes?

mercredi 9 avril 2014

The perfect white tee

Just a question of finding the right size, the right collar, the right transparency and sleeves for your body.
Still looking for it.

jeudi 3 avril 2014

Conscious Consumerism // Once again environment is on the front of the stage

It is really funny that my last post was talking about H&M Conscious collection and high-street brands commitment into environment issues. Because these last days I see so many articles in the press talking about that! 

It seems that ecology in fashion is at the center of the industry right now.
Then, it is always the same question : should it come from the brands in a proactive behavior, or in a reactive strategy taking into account the rising awareness of consumers and their taste for ecofriendly products?

This is what I read in the last article of Business Of Fashion, titled Julie Gilhart on Conscious Consumerism.

Business Of Fashion first quotes Ever Manifesto publication (I told you about this in my last post), which is going to be launched with the goal of increasing awareness about the need to develop a more sustainable system in the fashion industry and in our consumption.
Source : Ever Manifesto publication 01 http://www.evermanifesto.com/content/downloads/01-Ever-Manifesto-Everlution.pdf

Then, they interview Julie Gilhart, a very famous fashion consultant "on why sustainability matters and why conscious consumerism will define the future of fashion retail."

She highlights that this interest has been first brought by major and high fashion designer such as Stella Mc Cartney (with totally vegan collections and a major part of her ready-to-wear collection is ecofriendly). 

Now the high street brands such as H&M and Zara have to serve as examples too and to make affordable this ecofriendly fashion to the people. You can read my last post, but I also read today about a new initiative of the two giants of the industry : with the purpose of protecting the environment, H & M and Zara have banned wood from ancient and jeopardized forests to manufacture their garments containing viscose. The clothing industry represented 70 millions trees last year, and most of them come from jeopardized forests such as tropical forests in Indonesia or boreal forests of the Far North .
H&M even stated that it will do everything it can to avoid these textiles within three years.

As we told many times before, the consumer is changing everyday and has new concerns. He is more exigent, want to know how is made his shirt, by who and where. He has access to social media, which brings him a great transparency, and informs himself so quickly about everything.

" (...) Customers “will not just be seduced by the ‘fashion’ but also by how the fashion is made.” " 
"(...)The way the product is made adds value. The mindset of the consumer is changing in the sense that they are becoming more aware that buying a product that has no regard for environmental or social impact is no longer attractive to them."
"XC: And do you believe this change will come from customer demand, or should brands be leading the way?JG: The responsibility lies with both, but at present, brands should be answering the call. Consumer thoughts in this arena are changing quickly. If I were a brand, positioning myself now… I strongly believe that when this consumer awareness becomes more prevalent, brands will be forced to change. In fashion, the ones that lead and innovate are always the ones, that if managed correctly, are the most successful."

Julie Gilhart also underlines the fact that the retailers have now access to big data new technologies and then can easily understand the demand, allow them "the clever interpretation of shopping habits, needs, wants, and more". By using in a clever way this data, retailers can prevent waste thanks to more flexible, accurate whole-sale order/and thus production.
"It will be so fun and sexy, that anyone who is not participating in this way will look out of date and won’t be able to make their business work. They will be forced to change."
And I think that we should end by these words :

"Conscious consumerism is a reminder that consuming affects humanity and the world at large. We need to remember our purchases have power to express our beliefs."
Source : Ever Manifesto 01 http://www.evermanifesto.com/content/downloads/01-Ever-Manifesto-Everlution.pdf

We are not powerless : our shopping basket is our power. If we want bullshit, the industries produce bullshit. If we want pink, they will produce pink. And if we buy organic, they will have to produce organic.
(By the way this theory works for every type of product.)

mardi 1 avril 2014

Organic & fashion // What major companies do

These last days, three things made me think about writing this post.

First, H&M is going to launch on April 10th its new H&M Conscious exclusive collection and promotes it a lot, with a campaign starring the beautiful Andreea Diaconu (great model). Last year it was Vanessa Paradis.

Besides, for a school market survey I had to study Veja, the sneakers brand producing totally fair-trade footwear in Brazil, with all the more environmental-friendly processes as they can and using only organic materials.

Moreover, I've been at H&M to do some spotting for spring shopping, and I tried a lot of basic and fluid tees. And I realized that many of the items I liked were labelled "Conscious".
What is Conscious H&M(click)? It has been now a long time(since 2004)that H&M proposes many items made in organic cotton and try to promote a more environment-friendly production and image.
Conscious is also the whole concept and organization in which H&M committed in many fields : water, education and women strengthening "Make a difference", you can read more here.
I don't know if you heard about it but lately H&M collected your old clothes to recycle them and in exchange they gave you vouchers for shopping.

Being one of the biggest importer of cotton in the clothing industry, that seems to be relevant and responsible.

Of course many other brands (focused on organic materials) propose ecologic clothes, but it is still a niche, that, sometimes, represent higher prices. What I appreciate is that H&M is a high-street fashion brand that reaches everybody with very low prices and a distribution channel so huge. Everybody can buy "Conscious" clothes.

If you go on their e-shop (yeah and if you're french you must be excited since they finally launched it!) you can see how many clothes are "conscious". And they have the objective to have all their item made with organic cotton by 2020.  To have tried some, I can tell you they look nice and are so comfy.

The exclusive collection is a way to promote this concept by launching more "design" clothes. This is according to me a good idea, in order to show that organic does not compromise fashion, design and trend. They do it each year (or twice a year), besides their basics in organic cotton. This time, they collaborate with the two girls from EVER Manifesto Alexia Niedzielski and Elizabeth von Guttman. EVER Manifesto is a think-tank publication (also founded with Charlotte Casighari, the beautiful niece of the Sovereign of Monaco) to promote sustainability in the fashion industry. They brought they know-how. According to them people should be able to know where their clothes come from, how they have been made, by who, in which situation, etc. They built a campaign named EVER conscious with the aim to spread this message for the occasion, based on the self-reflection and on the famous "selfie".

On the other side... we have the other giant of the industry, Zara. Zara had many troubles with their "ecofriendly" image.
I don't know if you remember, but in 2012 Greenpeace tested Zara products and revealed they contain toxic chemicals (more than 60% of the items tested). Zara had to admit and make something, under the public pressure...
"Just nine days after Greenpeace launched its report 'Toxic Threads: The Big Fashion Stitch-Up', high street giant Zara has gone into detox" Source
Oh, but if you read the full report, Zara was not the only one presenting very high percentage of items containing toxic chemicals. GAP or Mango too, to quote just two. Even if the danish brand ONLY can really scare us with 100% positive clothes at the chemical testing. You would be very surprised by the brands accused by GreenPeace and invite you to read this . H&M had one of the lowest results with Benetton.

And then, all I find on their website that they name "organic"... 4 items. 
Not a lot when you know all the products available every week at Zara.

I won't do a longer post : I am not a specialist. I did not study all the environmental issues linked to fashion. Of course, these giants of the fashion industry (I am not that naive) still have production facilities in less developed countries, and we cannot really know how it is out there. But H&M shows a particular commitment in many projects, as you can see on their website. And as one of the leader in the whole global industry, this could be still a good example.
Of course big companies don't do it with a sudden awareness and love for the planet (I still hope some employees really believe in what they do) but because they spotted the trend and the raising awareness about consumers' lifestyle for organic stuff etc.

I don't know many 100% organic brands that still propose trendy silhouettes at affordable price ( we have to fight this idea that to respect the nature we have to be rich... it is getting better, but still... we know how it is), but if you know/buy some, I would be happy to hear about it.

How do you feel about that? Which  brands do you know that commit to such concepts? Do you buy organic, or have a preference for it, or really don't care about it? What do you think about all this stuff?

mardi 25 mars 2014

My Spring Summer 2014

How I want to look like for the upcoming season?
My wish list is actually totally inspired by Isabel Marant SS14 collection.
A mix of black leather and really romantic pink colors.
I have enough black I think, so it is time for me to force myself to buy black.
I will love some light grey, pale pink, white and trade my golden jewelry for silver and rosé gold.
And also, buy some skirts or dresses ( I don't have at all, and I kinda miss to wear more girly outfits.)

 & Other Stories


Oh, and also, I would like the perfect denim mini skirt. Not in black, but blue.

vendredi 21 mars 2014

Recommends : The September Issue

Recently I saw Mademoiselle C, a movie about Carine Roitfield and her launch of her new issue, CR.

I've been disappointed... the documentary was tasteless, full of stereotypes about the fashion industry.

Then, I decided to watch The September Issue, the documentary filming Anna Wintour and Vogue America team everyday before the launch of the most important issue of Vogue NY of the year : the September magazine.

THIS was truly interesting. You see every step of the making of the issue, the shoots, the meetings, the inspirations, the perfectionism of Anna Wintour, how she visualizes each page of the magazine.
Oh yes, you realize that Devil Wears Prada is not that much a legend (and if you have seen it, definitely you should watch The September Issue to make the comparison!)... Wintour is tough. But Wintour is tough in a stupid way. She is a hard-worker, desiring to publish every month a piece of art, always telling new stories, trying to propose something new every 30 days. You see how much she influences every part of the fashion industry and how much her opinion counts for designers.

I think what i often see it that people are frighteened about fashion. Because it scares them or make them feel insecure they just put it down. On the whole people that may say, the meanny things about our world I think that's usually because they feel, in some ways, excluded or, you know, not a part of 'the cool group' so as a result they just mock it.Just because you like to put on a beautiful Carolina Herrera dress or a pair of J Brand blue jeans instead of something basic from K-Mart it doesn't mean that you're a dumb person.There is something about fashion that can make people really nervous. 
Anna Wintour

On the other hand, besides she argues against what fashion "haters" tell about this industry, just one scene in the movie, she says something that touched me. Mentioning her brothers and sister's work (Patrick Wintour, political editor in The Guardian, James and Nora Wintour have worked in London local government and for international non-governmental organizations respectively, her sister is very implied in Africa's cause), that they surely think that what she does is "amusing". When she says that, we feel that she loves fashion with passion and on the other hand she knows how it is compared to other world's issues...

I also loved this movie because I could finally discover Grace Coddington, Vogue U.S creative director and close collaborator of Anna Wintour, how much she is inspiring, passionate, visionary, creative and how she defends her ideas of aesthetics in front of the lion queen Anna.

Now, I know that my next reading will definitely be this :

And you, did you see Mademoiselle C? The September Issue? What did you like/or not about it?