mercredi 19 novembre 2014

Come back - inspiration

I know I have been quite absent of the blogosphere these times.
I am eager to post more and show you my last purchases, my winter wishlist etc.
I can't wait to work more for my personal blog.

To make you wait, some inspiration.

Azzedine Alaïa's last show was.... No words. The King out there.

I know you have seen it everywhere (yes everywhere, every magazine, every blog) but sh**, Autumn-Winter Louis Vuitton collection by Nicolas Ghesquière is Heaven.

Lara Stone bares her post-baby body in Photoshop-free photoshoot a year after childbirth
(Thumbs up for Lara) for System magazine.

Kendall Jenner is the new face of Estee Lauder. Loved that new.

Worked again for Carven. And found the perfect black heels.

If like me you had a serious crush on the Burberry capes...

I found for you the perfect Topshop alternative for only 46 euros. Thanks Mallaury.
(And thanks my roommate who ordered it and I will steal her. If she wants. I love you roommate )

Promise, I'll be back!

mardi 21 octobre 2014

Oscar de la Renta took a last bow

Oscar de la Renta's death has been confirmed last night. He was 82, fighting against a cancer and died from its complications.

Good bye Oscar,  master of the romantic dresses that have always made dream girls about being a princess in a fairy tale.

mercredi 8 octobre 2014

Fashion month is over! // Favorite looks & My Fashion Week in Paris

September is over, and lets behind us 4 weeks of intense fashion, between New-York, London, Milan and Paris.

This time, I decided I would not bother you with a ton of pictures completely disorganized on a post.

Thus I decided to create a Pinterest! And there, you will find all the looks I loved from the 4 entire weeks in all cities.
Moreover it would be perfect when Spring arrives (oh... such a long time to wait :( ) to look back for my inspiration and what I loved in those Spring/Summer 2015 collections.

Find my Pinterest here!

Abonnez-vous au tableau Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015- Favorite silhouettes de Mallaury sur Pinterest.

 Do you remember my last Copenhagen Fashion Week, when I worked as a dresser for Filip Arickx, one of the designer of the Belgian brand A.F. Vandevorst? (If you don't, see my related post here! )
He gently invited me to their show in Paris during this FW. 
It was in Garage Lubeck in the 16th. 

It was really a great show. I was very happy for the designers, the room was full.

On my seat, I have be given the little report of designers describing their collection.
Who is the A.F. Vandevorst Spring Summer 2015 girl?
I write you some of the important elements.

"Aerodynamic, she descends to earth. Harnessed, striding into the day as a parachute trails"
"Circling the contrasts of draping and structure controlled, the silhouette transitions through soft tailoring and utility daywear to the elegant flou of voluminous evening columns, as crepe and wools meet crisp poplin, rubberized molton and the daring explosion of mounded cotton imbued with aluminium"
"palette of cool ice treys and khaki tones erupts in flaming red and the graphic speckle of monochrome feathers"
"Aeronautical elements"
(...) "
The atmosphere was built on a Belgian director's movie "Moving Stories", Nicolas Provost, with a backdrop of a smoke curtain from where models entered on the catwalk.

How to say it was all I like to wear? Khaki, mix of leather fabric and soft silk, overalls, nonchalant sexiness with shirts you naively "forgot" to close...
Again, Bravo Filip & An! I am very happy to see that's review is this season valorizing their work. They deserve it.

Oh... And also, I had some selfie time backstage with the great model Maggie Jablonski who closed the show.

Saturday, my roommate and I just went a bit to Palais de Tokyo to catch the special Fashion Week atmosphere. Even if some things kind of bother me right now... All this circus of "did you see me" "take me in picture", streetsyle is now completely calculated... and lost its spontaneity, but I already wrote about it here on my blog. I had a discussion with a famous Swedish street styler about differences between PFW and other fashion weeks such as Copenhagen. I think Paris has lost some of its freshness... But this is the game. I watch it, laugh a bit about this circus, but I know that real stuff happen on the catwalk and backstage. This is the most important thing. Don't lose time outside to try to be spotted. Focus on what is inside the show.

Some polas of the week

And the beauty of the whole Fashion Week gets to....

The come back of Gemma Ward (back on Prada's show after 6 years!). 

jeudi 25 septembre 2014

Good Bye Enfant Terrible

The end of ready-to-wear for Jean-Paul Gaultier
A pointing finger on the over-exigence of the 21th Fashion industry?

September the 15th. In the middle of the electric Fashion month marathon...

Jean Paul Gaultier has announced plans to cease his women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections and accessories lines” 

Yes, one of our iconic french designer is saying goodbye his ready-to-wear strategic business unit.

The first reaction was shock: Oh, no! How can we imagine a ready-to-wear schedule without the one-time enfant terrible of French fashion — whose ready-to-wear shows had been among the hottest tickets in fashion week, with editors literally fighting for entree? Even if, in recent seasons, many of those same editors (myself included) had thought (or, ahem, written) that Mr. Gaultier’s ready-to-wear was becoming increasingly irrelevant, relying on the crutch of old ideas that may have been sensationalist 15 years ago, but now seemed achingly familiar?

Vanessa Friedman from NYT here highlights two main points : the undeniable affection that the fashion sphere has for JPG, the tradition of his dancing, exciting and original shows waited every six months... And on the other hand, a kind of jaded look glanced at the clothes themselves. They are kind of passed, even described as "retro".

What was so avant-garde, shocking and innovative for 80's has lost its meaning in our society.
Here Madonna in her famous pointing bras by JPG.

"Irrelevant" to take Vanessa Friedman's words. Irrelevant to what?

I think it means that Jean-Paul Gaultier's vision of fashion is not relevant to the today's challenges of  what was a place to express art through people clothes and which is now an intransigent business.

His joy of creating crazy clothes for people is now unadapted (old-fashioned?) of Ready-To-Wear segment needs.

However, "editors literally fighting for entree?" is still a true statement. But why, if the product don't interest them? The experience. To tell that they were at the show. Literaly a show, not a product presentation: Jean-Paul Gaultier's show are an experience, with models dancing, playing with a role or a theme. Last season, models were staged has candidates for "Dancing with the stars" TV show.

JPG in Ready-To-Wear was more about entertainment, than about business.
And this little amusement can make smile for a while, but the industry is not here for laughing.

This sadly reminds us Christian Lacroix's story"another formerly famous French name that slid off the schedule on the back of falling sales and who is now concentrating on (yup) costumes and other collaborations, fade into the ether of long ago?"(NYtimes) 
Christian Lacroix clothes were so imaginative, so out of our everyday needs in terms of ready-to-wear, that profits went away and he had to let down his own company?

Everything goes so fast, customers are bored so quickly, wanting their autumn clothes in July (Pre-fall collections are already in store after summer sales), to know what they are going to wear by march in September(Fashion Week)... Designers need to create/produce(which word to use?) something (and by something I mean many, many products, adaptations, patterns, shapes etc) every two months. And the Ny Times' journalist highlights it:

"After all, when Mr. Gaultier started his business in 1982, fashion was not even an industry. Designers made two collections a year. When he introduced couture in 1997, that brought his grand total of collections up to four. With men’s wear, it went to ... six!"

Is the fashion industry going to exigent? Does the business let enough space for creativity and... some dream? Some unwearable dresses? Some scenarios?

But the last news let us be optimistic. Our Enfant Terrible is not going away. He confides to Women Wear Daily Magazine:
“Commercial constraints, as well as the frenetic pace of collections, don’t leave any freedom, nor the necessary time to find fresh ideas and to innovate.”

"WWD got the scoop that the designer intends to focus his time and creative energies on his couture collection and lucrative perfume business. WWD reports the news “points to challenging times for midsize players in an era of megabrands with global store networks."
Actually JPG is clearing his portfolio. By narrow downing its work, he allows himself to focus on what brings money (Beauty products) and what is adapted for him to express his vision (costume and couture).

We can note this funny things : most of fashion Houses have dropped their couture segment to focus on what makes money nowadays: ready-to-wear. JPG made it the other way.

Paris Fashion Week has begun. Saturday the 27th, our Enfant Terrible will present his last collection at the Grand Rex.

I think we can brace ourselves for an incredible show full of personalities who have marked the history of fashion by Jean Paul Gaultier!

Article of Vanessa Friedman available here.

jeudi 11 septembre 2014

These interviews by Vogue are so great / Anna Wintour

I always loved these "speed dating" interviews by Vogue. This one is really cool with the no-need-to-present fashion queen.

mercredi 6 août 2014

Autumn inspiration

Autumn collections are already there.

My inspiration for next september is all about khaki.
Etoile Isabel Marant

Earrings of Isabel Marant collection

mardi 5 août 2014

July catch up // Paris

I have...

Been to Dijon to see an Erasmus best friend

Been working during July for my favorite brand ever.
Rue de Lappe-Paris 11

Isabel Marant étoile Lookbook AW2014

A sweater with my name

Isabel Marant AW2014 campaign with Gisele
Been eating and drinking a lot in the parisian summer
Paris 12

Paris 10

Paris 11

Pause café Paris 11

Paris 12

Nanashi Paris 3

Paris 12

Paris 4

Been shopping my first luxury gift ever to myself...
And some pretty basics.
Lino Tee by Zara (they're perfect wanna buy all colors)

In love

Princesse Tam Tam (thanks to the -50%)

Been discovering old pictures from 2012... Made me think I should take "old way" pictures more often...

And been looking for a new flat for next september with my future beloved roommate, and celebrating it eating indian food.

Been creating a blog to sell my stuff : go and see!

August, next : Getting the flat in Rouen, a small week of vacation with my sister and stepmother in Périgord, moving to Rouen and all that stuff.