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vendredi 30 janvier 2015

Couture week

I don't follow couture as much as I follow ready-to-wear fashion weeks, but this season, I had really nice surprises.

Actually the problem with couture is I find everything beautiful, it takes your breath away : the attention to every detail, the amazing craftsmanship...but this emotion is totally objective. I hardly imagine these beautiful pieces in my wardrobe (obviously), but moreover, I don't really find inspirational silhouettes to adapt/interpretate in my own style, because I feel that it is sometimes quite repetitive. Many couture collections don't show a true risky difference season after season: it is always gorgeous, but not often original.

As always, I liked Bouchra Jarrar.

The sexiness of going totally nude under an ivory man's jacket...

And this season, I was surprised to love Chanel and Dior collections. Raf Simons is almost convincing me about Dior, collection after collection.
He amazingly succeeds in bringing something modern into Dior couture. These glitters overalls, the colorful stripes on ballet-inspired skirts, the transparent plastic trench-coats...





And yes, I loved Chanel. So colorful. Some will tell that it is always the same thing, these tweed little jackets... But this time, it's a total new type of Chanel jacket : a cropped one. Say hi to belly bottoms. Finally something young and fresh genuinely combined to Chanel's heritage. Karl Lagerfeld already re-interpretated a lot of times the Chanel little jacket...but this time was the good one, in my opinion. And all these flowers, all these colors marry perfectly together. The show was so refreshing. An ode to joy and cheerfulness.
Once again, we see this phenomenon of hiding the face for showing something else lower....I already spoke about that in this post. Faces are subtly veiled, belly buttons are out.






I found this video on Chanel News website. Thank to the video, you are more able to catch the sense of detail of Chanel's couture tradition. I love to see the fittings for a collection. You can see the clothes move, being put on, being put off...


Enjoy.


lundi 26 janvier 2015

Inspirations of the week

As every week, what I liked on the internet.


Christophe Lemaire

 Milan Fashion week street style




Old is trendy right now.


The end of skinny pants?


Acne studio

I want a Céline-inspired hair accessory.



Sporty and street.



Silky kimono




Kendall for Marc Jacobs



Hype couple





samedi 24 janvier 2015

Hidden face, penis out : what the fuck happened during men fashion week

Oh yes. 
You did not miss that. Rick Owens just make the male's attributes totally free this week at men Paris fashion week.
I don't know how to react. I think the idea is so crazy I love it. I laughed, I tried to figure out a meaning.


And then...say hi!



This man always knew how to shake our tidy and so wise fashion weeks. This season, he put avant-garde on another level. Is this basic provocation? Maybe, maybe not. But this is not what I am wondering. Actually, I don't even want to find a real philosophical reason behind that: I watch, I have fun, and I appreciate a collection, which, behind some of the few little "full-frontal display" silhouettes, is really good. And I think this is the whole purpose, when he declared "Let's not forget a bit of cheerful depravity". Style.com writes "So why would he bother with such?". Yes, I think the only lesson given to the fashion industry here is "why so serious?". After all I think nudity should not be such a big deal in 2015, after a 2014 year focused on every girl's butt and twerking skills.
End of.
"I built the company on me pissing in my mouth." Rick Owens was thinking back to the sculpture that scandalized Pitti Uomo years ago. Then he pondered the "puerility" of the full-frontal display in his men's show today. "It's a little bit of juvenile transgression," he mused. "Boys with their dicks out is such a simple, primal, childish gesture." 
Source: Style.com



 In the mean time, some designers decided to hide their models' faces. It was the case of the first John Galliano's couture collection for Maison Margiela, and of the men's Givenchy collection this week.

What is happening right now? When designers dare to expose what should be politically incorrect to show, and covers their models' faces, what is the message behind that?
Are the clothes the only things to focus on, forgetting about the body and the physical aspect? Is there any societal issues depicted there?
Moreover the red tint given to the face in both collection is not meaningless. It inspires me a certain violence, a face covered by blood at Givenchy, then covered by jewels at Margiela, drawing a deconstructed skull face.


Givenchy


Maison Margiela couture's final silhouette

It is somewhat reminiscent of the famous Alexander McQueen's diamond face-mask, covering the model's entire head. I think that McQueen never made a collection without any true meaning and always created story-telling pieces. 
Are we blinded by all these shiny stones? Are we hiding ourself behind extravagance? 

I don't have the ambition of telling what McQueen was meaning. 
But this type of creations always give food for thought. And I think the fashion industry also  can (and should) have this hat.